June 13, 2019

Narrow Bridge
only half of this bridge would open...made it narrow to get through



Charleston is an amazing city to visit. There is so much to do and enjoy in that beautiful city. You can walk the cobbled streets and gaze at the antebellum houses, visit a plantation or Fort Sumter and for naval enthusiasts there is the Naval and Maritime Museum complete with the USS Yorktown, a WWII era aircraft carrier. I think the one thing that sticks out in my mind is the size of the doors in the houses….Pat would have had to duck to get in.

 

Gardens
small but lovely gardens



Maybe people were a lot shorter 300 years ago! The other memorable things were the gardens that went with these homes. The yards were very small but they made the most of what space they had.

We didn’t linger long in Charleston as we had spent a number of days there during our first Loop in 2010. We pulled up anchor early in the morning and headed for Georgetown. The one thing to remember is that we were in South Carolina, the home of high tides, narrow channels and unexpected sand bars.

Norfolk
bridge opening for us in Norfolk



Yup, we ran aground shortly after we entered the ICW. We didn’t really run aground so much as I hit a sandbar….hard enough to throw Pat off his seat. We were in the channel but at the mouth of an outlet to the ocean. This is where the incoming tide rearranges the sandy bottom, dragging it into the channel. There was a dredger working about 1000’ up river. I almost yelled at them to tell them I found a spot for them to dredge, but Pat said no!

Sunken Boat
Georgetown

a lot of boats sunk during the Florence hurricane just left in the water

We made it to Georgetown that day and decided to spend an extra day doing boat chores. The grocery store was “just a short walk, ma’am”. Right! Two miles later, we got into a small, old but clean store; then we took a taxi back with our load of groceries. Georgetown has a lot of history and a ton of pride. The residents are friendly, helpful and love to talk about their town. It felt like we had stepped back into the 1950’s, with the old cinema, the stores with recessed doorways and the old-fashioned restaurants. The hop-on hop-off trolley tour is worth every cent. They even show you the 700-year old tree!

The next leg of our journey was to be through Myrtle Beach. We went that way in 2010, following another boat. When we got to the narrows, he called a security on the VHF, told me to stay right behind him and not to look over the side of the boat. Well that’s like waving the red flag in front of the bull. I looked. I saw. I didn’t like the rock piles two feet on either side of the boat. This time, we opted to make a 110 nm overnight ocean passage from the Georgetown Inlet to Cape Fear and bypass the scary stuff. It was a great crossing, super sailing for a change, and despite the name, the entrance wasn’t “fearful”. There isn’t anywhere to stay there, so we went another 23 miles to Wrightsville Beach.

Wrightsville Beach
Wrightsville Beach



We spent an extra day there waiting out high winds. We walked the beach then had an amazing seafood dinner. The area had been hit hard during hurricane Florence but most of the damage had been repaired, though there were still a lot of tarps on roofs and broken docks.

From Wrightsville Beach we went to Hammock Bay, a bay on a military base that allows boaters to spend the night listening to their touch-and-go aircraft and helicopter sorties and their live fire exercises until midnight. I mean where else can you go to get such entertainment! All the boats scooted out of the bay before 6:30 am when a patrol boat comes around to usher out any stragglers. No one wants to get caught in the crossfire. The next day it was off to Beaufort NC where they have a terrific maritime museum, and a workshop for building boats that harken back to the late 1800’s. Pat would love to be a volunteer there. They also have a pizza place with really awful pizza….order something else!

Hazards in ICW
hazzards to avoid in the ICW



The next day was long. Really, really long. We were a flotilla of sailboats that motored up Pamlico Sound. It is a huge, open bay, perfect for sailing if it hadn’t been flat calm. We motored for hours, only getting to sail when we reached Pamlico River. By then the wind was howling and the places we had picked to drop anchor were totally out of the question. It’s strange how someplace that looks perfect on a chart is a “no way am I going in there” when you arrive. After a 12 hour, 70+ mile day, we ended up in a creek at the south end of the Alligator River. The Alligator River is straight as an arrow, long and boring. Our entertainment was watching two F18’s practice their maneuvers overhead for an hour and squeezing out of the way when four high speed navy boats came zooming up behind us.

Then we got to Albemarle Sound. Unlike Pamlico Sound, the wind piped up, and we were able to sail, reefed down, all the way up to Coinjock. We decided that after two long days of sailing we would treat ourselves to a night on a dock. It was not to be. The only place with a dock is Coinjock Marina. Though we phoned ahead for reservations, no one called us back to confirm or deny us room on the dock. Their loss! Instead we took shelter from the wind behind a lovely island and spent a quiet night with the bugs, many, many bugs!

Our View
our view for more miles than I care to remember



The next day was exciting because we were headed for Norfolk. We caught up with Free Rider, a boat we had travelled with from Wrightsville Beach. He led us through the maze of ship yards, dry docks, lift bridges and tug boats. Norfolk waterways are utter madness after the solitude and remoteness of the last few weeks. But that is another story!

Osprey
osprey will make every marker their home Until next time…….

 

 

 

 



Until next time…….

- Longtime CY staffer Lynn Lortie and her husband Pat left Midland the summer of 2016 to make their way into the Great Loop and head out on a three year sailing odyssey. Follow their progress right here in CYOB.

Lynn Lortie

Related Articles

DIY & How to

  • Prev
On the Friday before a weekend with a gorgeous forecast, I heard on the news that a boat had ...
A reader suggested we take a look at anchors. Anchoring seems simple enough. A weighted hook with a ...
If you’ve spent any time in a boat yard during spring commissioning season, you won’t find it out ...
As a busy marine mechanic, I tend to have the same or similar conversations often, and they’re ...
This time of year, great deals abound. That boat with the ‘for sale’ sign looks quite attractive. ...
For less than US$2,500, Jim Leshaw, a lawyer who lives and works in Key Biscayne, Florida, ...
Each spring, I tend to notice canvas. I wish it was because it’s been immaculately maintained and ...
I’ve had two emails over the past few weeks with a count-down to launch (47 days per the last ...
Last time we looked at making proper electrical connections – the tools, supplies and methods ...
Winter is a great time to look at some of the hidden spaces on your boat – to take stock of what is ...

Sailboat Under Cloudy Skies

By Joan Wenner, J.D.

Sailboat under cloudy sky by Bill Cox-Unsplash

Have you ever needed on-the-water assistance due to a mechanical breakdown, running aground, taking on water (perhaps from striking a submerged or floating object), having a mishap with another vessel, or have a medical emergency and the authorities are not near, but another mariner answers your mayday or perhaps observes your predicament. Another boater is in the vicinity, but will, or should, that person offer to help perhaps at his peril? What if you were that pleasure craft operator?

Read more about Good Samaritans............

 

  

Boat Reviews

  • Prev
The Canadian Yachting test crew last week had the opportunity to run the Bavaria S36 HT at St ...
ILCA is seeking new builders to complement its existing network of manufacturers, the International ...
Nelson Gilbert (1854-1921) began building canoes in Brockville in the 1890s, a time when the sport ...
I have heard a lot of talk lately about trends in yacht clubs where senior membership is getting ...
To get you in the mood for cruising the Boat Show then launching in spring, here’s a boat that ...
Quite simply, the styles of boats have changed. Where in past years a buyer might have been looking ...
At the boat shows, the Ranger Tugs’ classic tugboat lines always grab the crowds, with the wives ...
Sometimes a great idea requires an encore, and French yacht builder Jeanneau got that with the ...
Tactical Custom Boats announces the sale to a North American client of a custom Tactical 77’ – Fast ...
Bruce Elliott is an inventor. And when he sold the technology he developed to build utility poles ...

Monte Carlo 52The launch of the new Monte Carlo 52 will be one of the highlights of the Cannes Yachting Festival 2019. This 50-foot high-end motor yacht is eagerly awaited and will introduce the Monte Carlo “Smart Luxury” generation. The stylish flybridge powerboat has inherited all the superb signature features of a successful range: modern design, elegant lines, distinctive character, incredibly well-used spaces and a careful focus on details, not to mention the iconic large porthole, distinguishing the 15 m (50’) to 18 m (60’) class of yachts made in Vendée. The Monte Carlo 52 has greatly improved all these features.

 

Read more about the Monte Carlo 52..............

 

John ArmstrongOur Canadian Yachting test team, John Armstong and Andy Adams, were at a Jeanneau media event called “Throttle Down” in St. Petersburg, Florida. The media event was held to highlight the Jeanneau Power Boat Line with the emphasis on their outboard models. 

The media event was scheduled to follow their Jeanneau dealer meetings, held earlier at Thunder Marine International in St. Petersburg. The Thunder Marine location is on the water and has a cooperative agreement with Jeanneau to host the full line of Jeanneau power boats in the water for dealer demonstration to their clients.

Read More about the Jeanneau Media Event...........

Destinations

  • Prev
Provincial Boat Havens are those special places to drop anchor in British Columbia’s West Coast and ...
NW Explorations, a Bellingham, Washington-based yacht charter, brokerage, and marine services ...
If you haven’t cruised the Rideau Canal before, you have missed a special treat and even if you ...
At the 2019 Vancouver International Boat Show I had the pleasure of meeting up with Allyson and ...
Following the harsh impact of Hurricanes Irma and Maria, The British Virgin Islands is making an ...
For the adventurous boater Bunsby Marine Provincial Park is a special place, situated due south of ...
There is good anchoring in Cowichan Bay and nearby, and salt water enough to make any boater happy. ...
We’re gliding through green-blue waters, colours so vivid and bright they hurt your eyes. We’re set ...
The Halifax waterfront has been attracting more and more large yachts in recent years. However, a ...
Ah Canadian simplicity at its finest; small town, big marina. Little Hilton Beach (population ...


ChicagoBy Mark Stevens

Photos by Sharon Matthews-Stevens


From my perspective on the observation deck of 360 Chicago in the John Hancock Building, I have an eagle’s-eye view of this Lake Michigan metropolis.

The city stretched out before us is a forest of concrete. Toward the lake – right below us – there’s a beach volleyball game in progress. White triangles crisscross Caribbean-blue waters in the distance. Sunday morning must be race day – just like home.

 

Read more about Chicago....................

 

Marine Products

  • Prev
When I took the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV down to Wednesday night racing, the people that came over ...
Protecting your boat from scratches and dents isn’t always easy. That’s why the Big Bumper Company ...
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA - Forespar has just introduced a new smaller size version of their ...
As boaters we all have a very unique connection to the water and all the opportunities it presents. ...
Edited by the Quebec Marine Association under the direction of L'Escale Nautique (producer of the ...
Blue Guard has announced the general availability of the BG-One, a solid-state bilge pump switch, ...
With the introduction of the Ion Power Basic, a safe Lithium Ion battery formulated with Lithium, ...
Finding a car brand that you enjoy while it does what you need can be tough, as they can be ...
Yikes! No boat refrigeration? You’ve Got to be Kidding me!! But then again, true campers don’t use ...
The Walker Bay Venture 14 claims to be the world’s first luxury Explorer Sport Tender. It is ...